Baby Cardigan Crochet Pattern

Little Ivy Baby Cardigan Crochet Pattern (Free, All Sizes)

A top-down raglan baby cardigan worked in a herringbone-stitch yoke and a shell-stitch body, finished with a ribbed hem, front bands, an optional scalloped collar, and set-in sleeves with cuffs. Designed to match a companion baby blanket, this pattern is fully size-adjustable across seven sizes just by changing hook and yarn weight.

Quick glance

TimeSkillSizeHook (this size)
6–8 hrsBeginner–Intermediate3–6 months3.5mm

Materials (3–6 month size)

  • DK weight (#3) yarn: 91g main color, 27g secondary color (118g total)
  • 3.5mm (US E/5) crochet hook
  • Four buttons, 13–15mm
  • Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers

Size chart (all sizes use the same instructions — just change hook and yarn)

SizeHookYarn
Newborn2.5mm#3 DK/8-ply
0–3 mo3mm#3 DK/8-ply
3–6 mo3.5mm#3 DK/8-ply
6–9 mo4mm#3 DK/8-ply
9–12 mo4.5mm#3 DK/8-ply
12–24 mo5mm#4 Aran/10-ply
2–3 yr5.5mm#4 Aran/10-ply

Finished measurements (3–6 mo size)

MeasurementSize
Shoulder to hem25.5cm / 10in
Sleeve, neckline to cuff23cm / 9in
Underarm to sleeve end14cm / 5.5in
Yoke depth11.5cm / 4.5in
Chest (flat)23.5cm / 9.25in

Terms & abbreviations

AbbrevTerm
chchain
scsingle crochet
hdchalf double crochet
dcdouble crochet
hbdcherringbone double crochet (see note below)
cluster / shell3-dc cluster stitch (see note below)
V-st(dc, ch 1, dc) in same st/space
FPhdcfront post hdc
BPhdcback post hdc
sl stslip stitch

Herringbone double crochet (hbdc): Yarn over, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through just 1 loop (2 loops remain). Yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops.

3-dc cluster (shell): Work 3 incomplete double crochets into the same stitch — for each one, yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, leaving the last loop on the hook without closing. After all 3 (4 loops on hook total), yarn over and pull through all 4. Chain 2, then sc into that same stitch to complete one shell.

Part 1 — Yoke (herringbone dc, top-down raglan)

Foundation: Chain 46.

Row 1: Work into the 4th chain from your hook (the skipped 3 chains count as your first stitch). Work across in this order, placing a stitch marker at each of the 4 corners as you go: Front panel, corner (ch 1, hbdc), Sleeve, corner, Back, corner, Sleeve, corner, Front panel.

Rows 2–7: Chain 2 (doesn’t count as a stitch), turn. Work 1 hbdc in each stitch across. At every corner, work (hbdc, ch 1, hbdc) into the previous row’s corner ch-1 space — this is your raglan increase. Finish each row working the last stitch into the 3rd chain of your foundation.

Yoke stitch count checkpoints

RowFront panel (each)Sleeve (each)BackRow total
16101244
27121452
38141660
49161868
510182076
611202284
712222492

Cut yarn after Row 7.

Part 2 — Transition Row (shells + V-stitch corners)

Row 8: Reattach yarn at the last stitch made. Chain 3 (counts as a dc), skip 1 hbdc, work a 3-dc cluster into the next stitch. Continue *skip 1, cluster* across each section. At each of the 4 corners, work a V-stitch (dc, ch 1, dc) into the corner space instead of a cluster.

Row 8 checkpoint: 5 shells per front panel, 11 shells per sleeve, 12 shells for the back — 44 shells total.

Place a stitch marker to note the right side of the work.

Part 3 — Body (separating the sleeves)

Body Row 1 (worked on the wrong side): Chain 3, turn. Work a cluster into the ch-2 space of each shell across the first front panel, then work 2 extra clusters into the corner V-stitch (one on the first dc, one in the ch-1 space) to bring this panel to 7 shells. Chain 4 to bridge across (skipping) the sleeve entirely — this separates the sleeve from the body. Continue across the back the same way, then bridge the second sleeve with another chain-4, and finish the second front panel to match the first.

Body Row 1 checkpoint: 7 shells per front panel, 14 shells for the back, plus a 4-chain bridge under each sleeve — 28 shells total.

Body Row 2 (right side): Chain 3, turn. Work clusters into each shell as before. When you reach each 4-chain bridge, work 1 cluster into the first chain, skip the next 2 chains, then work 1 cluster into the 4th chain — this fills the underarm gap with 2 shells.

Body Row 2 checkpoint: 32 shells total (28 + 2 shells added under each of the 2 sleeve gaps).

Body Rows 3–16: Chain 3, turn. Work a cluster into the ch-2 space of every shell across, all the way around. Stitch count stays constant at 32 shells every row. Cut yarn after Row 16 (measures roughly 25cm/9.75in from shoulder to this point in the 3–6mo size).

Part 4 — Hem (secondary color)

Hem Row 1: Attach your secondary color. Chain 2, then work 3 hdc into the ch-2 space of each shell around. (98 hdc total, including the starting 2 chains)

Hem Row 2: Chain 2, turn. Alternate FPhdc and BPhdc across the entire row. (98 sts) If front/back post stitches feel tricky, plain hdc or sc worked into the same spots is a perfectly good substitute.

Part 5 — Front Bands

Worked along each front edge, from the hem up through the yoke to the neckline, in your secondary color, picking up stitches along the row-ends.

Row 1: Along the body portion, alternate 2 hdc where a row-end shows a dc, and 1 hdc where it shows a 3-chain space. Continue this same logic up through the yoke portion. (39 sts total for the 3–6mo size — count and adjust as needed for other sizes.)

Row 2: Chain 1, turn. Alternate FPhdc/BPhdc across. (39 sts)

Row 3: Chain 1, turn. Continue the alternating pattern, offset by one so ribs align correctly. (39 sts)

No buttonholes are needed — the natural gaps between hdc rows are wide enough for buttons to pass through.

Repeat for the second front panel, worked top-down to mirror the first. Count carefully to match the same final stitch count as your first band.

Part 6 — Collar (optional — for a boy’s version, skip this and work one plain row of hdc or FPhdc/BPhdc around the neckline instead)

Collar Row 1: Work around the neckline edge starting with 7 hdc, then continue with an alternating 2-hdc/1-hdc increase pattern across the remainder. (58 hdc total — must land on an even number)

Collar Row 2: Chain 2, turn. Skip 1, work a cluster into the next stitch, repeating *skip 1, cluster* across. (27 shells, with the last 2 stitches worked as 1 plain hdc)

Collar Row 3: Chain 2, turn. Work a cluster into the ch-2 space of each shell across. (27 shells)

Optional edging (Row 4, secondary color): Around the collar’s outer curved edge, work (sc, ch 3, sc) into each shell space all the way around for a scalloped finish.

If the collar stands up more than you’d like, tack it down flat from the wrong side with a few small hidden stitches.

Part 7 — Sleeves (worked in the round)

Round 1: Starting in the gap under the arm, chain 2 and work 1 cluster (this is your center stitch). Work a dc2tog to bridge into the first of the 11 shells already established around the sleeve opening from the yoke rows. Work a cluster into each of the 11 shells around, then a second dc2tog to bridge back and close the round. (12 clusters total) Join with a slip stitch.

Rounds 2–15: Chain 2, turn. Work a cluster into the ch-2 space of each cluster around. (12 clusters, constant every round)

Part 8 — Cuff (secondary color)

Cuff Round 1: Chain 2 (counts as first hdc), work 2 hdc into the ch-2 space of each cluster around. (24 hdc)

Cuff Round 2: Chain 1. Alternate FPhdc/BPhdc around. (24 sts) Join and fasten off.

Repeat the entire Sleeve and Cuff construction identically for the second sleeve.

Common mistakes

MistakeFix
Yoke corners don’t increase evenlyDouble check you’re working the (hbdc, ch 1, hbdc) pair directly into last row’s corner ch-1 space, not into a regular stitch nearby
Front bands come out different lengthsCount stitches on the first band before starting the second, and adjust row 1 of the second band to match exactly
Collar looks wavy or ruffledToo many shells were added in Collar Row 2 — 27 is the tested count for this size; more will cause rippling
Sleeve doesn’t sit evenly at the underarmThe dc2tog “bridge” stitches at the start/end of Sleeve Round 1 are what close the gap smoothly — don’t skip them

Finishing

Weave in all ends. Sew on 4 buttons spaced evenly down the front band opposite the natural gaps in the hdc rows, which serve as buttonholes without needing to crochet any separately.

Baby Cardigan Crochet
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