Low-Sew Crochet Wiener Dog Pattern – Easy Dachshund Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

There’s a special kind of joy in watching a pile of separate little crochet pieces turn into a floppy-eared dachshund with more personality than seems reasonable for a stuffed toy. This is genuinely one of my favorite patterns to make — the plush chenille yarn does so much of the work in terms of that soft, huggable look, and the two-tone coloring is what really sells the “real dog” effect without needing a single bit of painting or fussy detail work.

I built this pattern to be as low-sew as I could manage. The legs attach directly into the body as you crochet, the ears get worked right into the head, and the only true sewing you’ll do is closing a couple of small gaps, tacking on the tail, and attaching the head at the very end. If you’ve made a few amigurumi before and are comfortable with magic rings, increases, and decreases, you’re ready for this one.

Let’s get into it.

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Finished Size & Look

Materials

Abbreviations (US Terms)

The Pieces You’ll Make

1. Tail (1)
2. Ears (2, worked flat)
3. Back feet/legs (2)
4. Front feet/legs (2)
5. Body (built directly from the two front legs)
6. Head (with ears attached as you go)
7. Face shaping and details
8. Assembly

Step 1: The Tail

Work this piece using your main (dark brown) color.

Don’t stuff the tail — flatten it and turn it right side out instead. Fold it flat and work 4 sc through both layers together to close the tip. Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn for sewing it onto the body later, and set it aside.

Step 2: The Ears (Make 2)

The ears are worked flat, back and forth in rows, then edged to clean up the shape.

Once you’ve finished the shaping, turn your ear to work along the outer edge: single crochet evenly all the way around the outside, working into the ends of rows and any open spaces to clean up the shape. There’s no exact stitch count here — just work your way around, then go around a second full time in the same way. Fasten off (no need to leave a long tail — the ears get crocheted directly into the head later). Repeat the entire ear from scratch to make a second one.

Step 3: Back Feet/Legs (Make 2)

Start with your light/accent color, then switch to your main dark color partway through.

Fasten off (no need to leave a tail, this gets crocheted into the body). Add a bit of stuffing into the foot — and if you want to get fancy, this is a great spot to embroider a couple of little paw pads on the bottom in a dark color. Repeat everything to make a second back leg.

Step 4: Front Feet/Legs (Make 2)

Worked exactly like the back legs, but with a longer dark-colored section at the top since the front legs need to reach up into the body.

For your first front leg, fasten off and add a little stuffing. For your second front leg, don’t fasten off — leave the working yarn attached, since this is what you’ll use to start building the body directly.

Step 5: The Body (Built from the Front Legs)

This is where things get fun — instead of crocheting a separate body and sewing legs on, we build the body right off of the two front legs.

Joining the legs:

1. Make sure your working yarn on the second front leg is centered on the side of the leg, then chain 3.
2. Pick up your first front leg. Insert your hook into a stitch centered on its side (directly across from where your yarn is on the other leg) and work 1 sc to attach.
3. Continue sc all the way around this first leg until you’re back at the base of your chain-3 — that’s 12 sc total, including your attaching stitch.
4. Work 3 sc across the top of your chain-3.
5. Continue around your second leg with 12 sc, back to your stitch marker.

That completes your first joining round. For the next round, work 3 sc into the other side of your chain-3 (the loops you haven’t used yet), then continue around, working in a few evenly spaced increases as you go to widen the chest area — build up gradually over the next couple of rounds until you’re at 36 stitches total around.

Shaping the chest and shoulders (8 rounds): for the next eight rounds, you’ll gradually increase the body by working single crochet with one increase tucked in per round, always keeping your stitch marker centered at the bottom-front of the body (shift it over with an extra stitch or two if needed — this varies slightly with everyone’s tension). The first two rounds of this section look like:

Continue the same general approach — single crochet with one increase worked in — for the remaining six rounds of this section, always re-centering your marker at the start of each round.

Attaching the back legs: once your body has grown enough, it’s time to attach the back legs the same way the front ones started things off.

1. Start the round with 1 sc.
2. Find the 6 stitches centered on one side of a back leg (mark them if that helps) and line them up with the next 6 stitches on the body. Single crochet through both layers together, 6 times, to attach.
3. Continue with 24 sc around the body.
4. Attach your second back leg the same way — 6 sc through both leg and body stitches together — but starting from the opposite side of the foot this time (front-facing rather than back-facing) so the legs end up mirrored.
5. Finish the round with 1 more sc.

Closing the gaps (false decrease technique): the round right after attaching the legs is where you’ll prevent little gaps from forming at each leg joint. Every time you transition from the body onto a leg (or back again), instead of just skipping the unused body stitch, pick up its front loop only and pull it through together with your next real stitch — this acts like a decrease and closes the gap invisibly. Work this way around both leg attachment points; the rest of the round is just regular single crochet. If this trick feels fiddly, you can absolutely skip it and just whip-stitch any small gaps closed later instead — the shaping will still look great either way.

Finishing the body (working down to closed):

Fasten off, leaving just a small tail. Thread it onto your embroidery needle and weave it through the last 6 remaining stitches, then pull tight to close the gap completely. Weave in the end.

Attaching the tail: thread the tail piece from Step 1 onto your needle and sew it onto the back-center of the body, right around where the back legs attach. You can angle it sticking up, laying down, or off to the side — whatever feels right. A few secure stitches through both pieces is all it takes.

Step 6: The Head (Ears Attach As You Go)

Work this piece in your main dark color to start.

Attaching the ears (round 8): with the pretty side of your head facing up (magic-ring tail facing away from you), work 11 sc. Line up the top 6 stitches of your first ear with the next 6 stitches on the head, and sc through both together, 6 times, to attach. Work 8 sc. Attach your second ear the same way — 6 sc through both layers. Finish the round with 11 more sc.

Insert your safety eyes now, placing them between rounds 14 and 15, about 7–8 stitches apart, and centered nicely between the ears.

Stuff the head firmly, then tie off your dark color — everything from here is worked in the light color only.

Insert your safety nose on the top-center of the snout, positioned between rounds 21 and 22 — it’ll be a snug fit working around the safety backing, but it’s worth it for how cute the finished snout looks. Fasten off, thread the tail through the remaining 5 stitches, and pull closed. Weave in the end.

Step 7: Face Shaping and Details

A couple of small embroidery touches make a big difference here.

1. Bringing the eyes together: thread a small scrap of your dark yarn onto your needle. Insert it at the top-inner corner of one eye and come out at the top-inner corner of the other eye, leaving a small tail. Then insert it at the bottom-inner corner of the same eye and come out at the bottom-inner corner of the other eye. Tie the two ends together — tighter for eyes set closer together, looser for a bit more space. This is also what gives the snout that long, gentle dachshund taper.
2. The little white eye highlight: thread a small scrap of white yarn onto your needle. Insert at the top-center of one eye and bring it out at the side of the head. Rethread and insert at the bottom-center of the same eye, bringing it out at that same point on the side of the head. Pull snug to cinch a tiny white accent right at the edge of the eye, then tie off. Repeat on the other eye.

Step 8: Assembling Your Dog

The very last step is attaching the head to the body.

1. Look at your body from the side — you’ll notice a slight divot where the back curves up, followed by a flatter section right after it. That flat section is exactly where the head sits.
2. Thread a long piece of your dark yarn onto your embroidery needle. Grab a stitch from the body and pull your yarn through, leaving a tail to tie off with later.
3. Line up your head where you want it, then grab a stitch from the head and pull through.
4. Continue working your way around, alternating between a stitch on the body and a stitch on the head, whip-stitching the whole way around until the head feels secure.
5. Tie off your two ends together and weave them into the head.

Styling the back legs: you’ve got a few fun options here, and it’s entirely up to personal taste:

• Leave them extended as they are, for a playful, stretching pose.
• Bring them together at the bottom of the body and tack them together with a scrap of yarn, for more of a lounging-but-alert look.
• Fold them flat against the sides of the body and tack each one in place with a stitch or two, for a sleepy, curled-up pose (this is my personal favorite).

And that’s it — a squishy, floppy-eared little dachshund, ready for cuddling. If you make one, I’d genuinely love to see how yours turns out — every batch of chenille yarn dyes up just a little differently, so no two ever look quite the same, and that’s honestly part of the charm.